The Hong Kong Jockey Club
badges edit・Lifestyle
Behind Each Sip: Domaine Leflaive
Discover how Burgundy’s terroir and Cantonese cuisine are a match made in heaven
01 June 2025
hero
For lovers of Bourgogne Blanc, or white Burgundies, Domaine Leflaive perhaps needs little introduction. The fourth generation family-owned winery, with CEO and Associé-Gérant Brice de La Morandière currently at the helm, is recognised for producing elegant, distinctive Chardonnays from the terroirs in Puligny-Montrachet, and for “reflecting the terroirs of Puligny with the greatest emotion,” as de La Morandière shares with the Club. IMG_MAY25_Lifestyle_DomaineLeflaiveWineDinner_Cap_1 Caption: Brice de La Morandière, CEO and Associé-Gérant of Domaine Leflaive

For de La Morandière, who spent some years working in China amongst other countries overseas before taking on the role as family custodian in 2015, one of the best ways to enjoy his estate’s wines is while having Chinese cuisine. “[They] go fantastically well with each other” he says. Some Members may have been lucky enough to attend the recent exclusive wine dinner at Fortune Room with a six-course Cantonese menu crafted by Chef Paul Tsui, but now you can sample these delights too at home – with select appellations now available at The Crest.

Read on to hear more from both masters about this perfect match, and their notes on creating delicious and unforgettable wine pairings. IMG_MAY25_Lifestyle_DomaineLeflaiveWineDinner_Cap_2 Caption: The wine dinner will showcase some of Domaine Leflaive’s most prized appellations
Personifying the Flavour Profile
When it comes to matching wine with food, it is all about knowing the personalities of each wine as well as the ones on the plate. “Whether you have something that is delicate or something that is stronger, then you have wines that pair with that,” de La Morandière says.

With wines, de La Morandière likens their personalities to musical scores he says. “The composer is a mother nature, the score is the place – Puligny – and there are different scores, different personalities in which you play the music.” IMG_MAY25_Lifestyle_DomaineLeflaiveWineDinner_Cap_3 Caption: To de La Morandière, Domaine Leflaive is renowned for its capacity to interpret the different terroirs in Puligny-Montrachet

De La Morandière says the winery possesses a virtuosic capacity to interpret all of these different terroirs. As the wines are all made exactly the same way, it is the terroir that takes over and presents itself on your palate. “Some are more exuberant, some are more reserved, some are more delicate, some are more showy,” he says. And once we find the mood of the wine, the character of the ideal dish pairing becomes apparent.
Pairing by Intensity and Mouthfeel
Typically, courses in a wine dinner are arranged in order of flavour and taste, usually from lighter and fresher flavours to stronger ones, Chef Paul shares. “But we also have to think about whether the texture of the dish complements the wine.”

“Premier Cru and Grand Cru wines are usually more full-bodied and richer, so you should pair these with dishes that have stronger flavours, and perhaps with some creamy mouthfeel. For instance, the sauce should provide the same ‘weight’ as the wine.” IMG_MAY25_Lifestyle_DomaineLeflaiveWineDinner_Cap_4 Caption: Chef Paul’s recent six-course Cantonese menu accentuates the strengths of Domaine Leflaive’s wines
Elevating Umami and Freshness
In fine Cantonese cuisine, it is “always about the freshness,” says Chef Paul. So in a seafood-centric menu it is his prerogative to allow the fresh, umami nature of the ocean stand out. For him, shellfish such as geoduck and surf clam pair well with a Macon-Verze, which accentuates the freshness and fruitiness from the grapes without too much oak influence.

For the winery’s Puligny-Montrachet village wine, which has more complexity and oak, Chef Paul suggests a dish that parallels its intensity in flavour – stir-fried lobster, for instance – one of his personal favourites as it exemplifies the beauty of “wok hei” in Chinese cuisine.
Family-style Dining for Flavour Diversity
White wine is multi-faceted, says de La Morandière, and Chinese cuisine allows it to fully play to its strengths. “What’s great about Chinese cuisine is that within the meal, you get a diversity of flavours, and that diversity goes well with Chardonnay – and the Chardonnay of Domaine Leflaive,” he says.

Within a typical meal served family-style with sharing plates, “you almost want to have two glasses of two different characteristics, and then you can try whatever combination works the best,” de La Morandière recommends. For example, try collagen-rich braised fish maw cooked with aromatic chicken oil and Yunnan ham, paired with two different 2014 Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru wines – Clavoillon and Pucelles – for optimum comparison and enjoyment of its creamy texture and all the different umami and savoury flavours. IMG_MAY25_Lifestyle_DomaineLeflaiveWineDinner_Cap_5 Caption: Domaine Leflaive’s wines are all made in the same way, allowing the terroir of the grapes to truly shine
Choosing Emotion Over Label
Whether you’re a seasoned wine lover or an amateur aspiring to learn more about Burgundy, de La Morandière offers some final recommendations: “lean towards a simple appellation,” he says. “Don't be snobbish, because all you want to see are Premier Cru or Grand Cru. Don't think that you need to ‘know’ to enjoy; a simple wine can give you a great emotion, because there is beauty in simplicity.”

To experience the forefront of white Burgundy with fine Cantonese cuisine, take home a selection of Domaine Leflaive from The Crest or enjoy a bottle with your next meal at Fortune Room.