Culinary Masters・Culinary Masters
The Timeless Craft of Ellis Lau
24 June 2025
Chef Ellis Lau draws on a lifetime of experience—and the steady glow of a charcoal grill—to honour timeless traditions with heartfelt precision.
Every time Ellis Lau fires up the grill, a memory returns. He’s a boy again, standing on the street outside a dai pai dong, the smoky scent of gas flames curling around skewers and fish balls. “That smell—that feeling—it lit something in me,” he says. “That’s when I knew.”
It was never about chasing status. His culinary journey began at a five-star hotel—not on the line, but washing dishes. “Formal training? I forged my own,” he says. “I arrived early, stayed late, absorbed every detail. If a station needed help, I raised my hand.” From prepping seafood to mastering the grill’s alchemy, he ascended through grit and curiosity.
Every time Ellis Lau fires up the grill, a memory returns. He’s a boy again, standing on the street outside a dai pai dong, the smoky scent of gas flames curling around skewers and fish balls. “That smell—that feeling—it lit something in me,” he says. “That’s when I knew.”
It was never about chasing status. His culinary journey began at a five-star hotel—not on the line, but washing dishes. “Formal training? I forged my own,” he says. “I arrived early, stayed late, absorbed every detail. If a station needed help, I raised my hand.” From prepping seafood to mastering the grill’s alchemy, he ascended through grit and curiosity.
The setting is pastoral, yet each dish revealed layered artistry. Horseshoe Grill specialises in classic Western dishes with timeless appeal—steaks, seafood, salads, and of course, the flaming finale: Crêpe Suzette. For the Club’s 140th anniversary, Ellis created a special rendition of the dish, using vibrant citrus, Grand Marnier, and a careful caramelisation to strike just the right balance. “It’s about honouring the moment,” he says. “The timing—the touch – must be exact. One second too long, and you lose the magic.”
That sense of precision defines his approach. From the exact heat of the teppan to the calibrated use of cast iron, Ellis has fine-tuned every element of his station. “We’ve tested every method—flat-top, plancha, open grill—and what we use now gives you the crisp outside and juicy centre you can’t fake,” he explains. “When a steak’s done right, it transcends technique — it’s craft.”
That sense of precision defines his approach. From the exact heat of the teppan to the calibrated use of cast iron, Ellis has fine-tuned every element of his station. “We’ve tested every method—flat-top, plancha, open grill—and what we use now gives you the crisp outside and juicy centre you can’t fake,” he explains. “When a steak’s done right, it transcends technique — it’s craft.”
But technique, he insists, is only part of the story. Atmosphere matters just as much. “I want people to linger here. To slow down,” he says. “Food isn’t just sustenance—it’s a bridge to moments that matter. You want guests to sense the connection before the first bite.” The restaurant is a cherished sanctuary near Kwu Tung—where milestones are celebrated, generations return, and dishes taste like tradition lovingly preserved. “This place has heart,” he says. “You feel it the moment you step inside.”
That emotional connection is central to Horseshoe Grill’s enduring charm. Regulars often have their own stories: wedding anniversaries, family milestones, or traditions woven over decades. “Some of our guests, I’ve seen them grow up,” Ellis says. “Now they bring their kids. That kind of trust — it’s the highest compliment.”
He’s also quick to credit his team. “In this kitchen, everyone masters the rhythm — from start to finish,” he says. “Hierarchy fades when passion takes over. If a station stumbles, someone steps in. No hesitation.” That ethos keeps the kitchen nimble, ready to adapt to seasonal menus or spontaneous specials—like Alaskan king crab or premium cuts for long-time guests. “We evolve with purpose,” he says. “That’s how craftsmanship stays sharp.”
Still, Ellis is not one for grand statements. “My focus is on perfecting, not reinventing,” he says. “When you refine a classic, you honour its soul.” That humility, paired with decades of hard-earned skill, is what gives Horseshoe Grill its heartbeat. Because for Chef Ellis, every dish carries more than flavour. It carries memory—and a flicker of the same fire that ignited his journey – burning brighter with every dish.
That emotional connection is central to Horseshoe Grill’s enduring charm. Regulars often have their own stories: wedding anniversaries, family milestones, or traditions woven over decades. “Some of our guests, I’ve seen them grow up,” Ellis says. “Now they bring their kids. That kind of trust — it’s the highest compliment.”
He’s also quick to credit his team. “In this kitchen, everyone masters the rhythm — from start to finish,” he says. “Hierarchy fades when passion takes over. If a station stumbles, someone steps in. No hesitation.” That ethos keeps the kitchen nimble, ready to adapt to seasonal menus or spontaneous specials—like Alaskan king crab or premium cuts for long-time guests. “We evolve with purpose,” he says. “That’s how craftsmanship stays sharp.”
Still, Ellis is not one for grand statements. “My focus is on perfecting, not reinventing,” he says. “When you refine a classic, you honour its soul.” That humility, paired with decades of hard-earned skill, is what gives Horseshoe Grill its heartbeat. Because for Chef Ellis, every dish carries more than flavour. It carries memory—and a flicker of the same fire that ignited his journey – burning brighter with every dish.
Join Chef Ellis for the Storytellers Dining Series. Learn more and reserve your seat.
